Karibo Kenya

Kenya was awesome! I am sorry the visit has been so short, but I am already thinking about changing my plans and coming back, this time for much longer. If I extended my stop-over in Nairobi on my way back from Botswana (this wouldn't be until May). This will cost $150, but if I extend it for a month or so, it would be so worth it. I would like to go to the coast, to Mombasa, and also venture into Tanzania. The bus system in Eastern Africa is pretty good, and I think I would feel comfortable doing this even if I was on my own.

The reason I had such a good time in Kenya was all due to my friend Stellah. I didn't know her before I arrived, in fact I was hooked up with her through a girl I barely know in Blacksburg. But she was an incredibly gracious host, met me at the airport and everything. I would never have gotten to see as much of the city as I did with her.

We took the buseverywhere, which was confusing for me but she definitely knows her way around. We even rode on Matatus--small mini buses that completely ignore traffic rules and general safety concerns. Most of the time you have to get on and off while the bus is moving. Pretty scary! The way people drive in Nairobi is the worst I have ever seen--and I have been to a fair amount of foreign cities. Nobody observes traffic rules, people frequently drive up on the sidewalk or on the wrong side of the road. Walking around we often had to cross busy roads with four or six lanes of traffic. Eventually I got the hang of it, but it was probably my least favorite part about Nairobi.

Most of the time Stellah and I traveled around by bus, I was the only white person around. It was only when we were in the area of Nairobi where there are lots of hotels, that I saw one other white woman get on the bus. It was hard to not be self conscious about this fact. There are certainly a fair amount of white Europeans and Americans living in or visiting Nairobi at any given time. But most of the time Stellah and I were not visiting any touristy places. The bus system in the city seemed pretty complicated, and without a guide, I don't know if I would have been able to figure it out. But it was one of my favorite things to do, as I got to see all parts of the city through the window, including many parts I probably wouldn't have gone if it were not for Stellah.

I stayed at a hostel a kilometer away from the city central, and despite my fears that I would just end up hanging out with other foreign travelers, I met some cool people. I met a Swiss couple who had traveled by bus and car to Nairobi from South Africa, and they were fun to talk to, as well as get advice about traveling by bus. I also met Heron, an Ethiopian who was working in Nairobi for a few months for a promotion company. He was really cool and great to hang out with because he had made lots of Kenyan friends. I also was totally impressed by the work he was doing--helping out artists and musicians by making them websites, and other promotional stuff. Especially I think it is great because he is African, and Africans helping other Africans is the way to go--not some foreign company. One large feat he was planning was to build a musical sound system and dance hall in Kibera. Kibera is the largest slum in Nairobi, and the second largest in Africa (Soweto in South Africa is the largest I think). Anyway, the dance hall is supposed to open on Christmas day, so I wish Heron and everyone good luck with that!

One night, Heron and I, as well as our Dutch friend Howard, and a Kenyan girl Rose, went out to a nightclub. It was great going to a real Kenyan club and not some tourist attraction. Howard and I were the only white people, but this didn't pose any problems. One or two Kenyan men asked me to dance, but nobody was pushy or anything. We drank Tusker, a Kenyan lager, which I enjoyed especially because the label has a cute picture of an elephant on it (although the name probably comes from the ivory trade, gross). Anyway, we had a great time. Everyone I saw was an amazing dancer, and we all agreed, Kenyans know how to dance!

My last night I spent with Stellah and her roomate, Harriet, in their dorm room outside of the city. Getting there was probably the biggest adventure I had: It involved walking with Stellah, being the only white person I could see, through River Road, which is notorious for its crime and prostitutes, and “not a place to go at night”. I didn’t realize that's where we were until after. All I know is that it was very crowded, I stuck out like a sore thumb with my backpack. I saw groups of men huddling around small tables on the street, all gambling. Then we got on a bus, I sat with my backpack on my lap, which meant I basically couldn’t move. The bus took us to another bus stop, sort of outside the city. We walked through an outside market that was selling, by the looks of it, used shoes and clothing. I think it might have been donations from Goodwill—the clothes and goods that even poor Americans don’t want and so they get shipped to poor places in Africa. Then we stood at a very crowded bus stop for a while, trying once again to get on a matatu. It was hard to maneuver, with my backpack and the crowds. I was of course worried that someone might try and steal something from my bag. I tried to angle it so that Stellah could watch it, but this wasn’t always possible. Finally we got on a matatu that took us to her apartment. A little later Stellah realized the strap of her purse had been slashed. Luckily nothing had been stolen, but she explained to me that thieves often slash purses with razor blades. If they do it just right, they make the slash where the inner pocket of the purse is and can steal the cellphone that is usually kept there without anyone noticing. I seriously wonder why the thief attempted to steal from Stellah and not me, as I was probably the easier target, and judging by the size of my pack and the color of my skin, probably had more valuables for the taking.

I spent the night with Stellah and her roommate Harriet. We listed to the radio, and visited some of their friends, including this very friendly guy named Alex. It was only on my last night in Kenya that I learned Stellah's real name is Kagendo. "Stellah" is only her name for westerners (Harriett's real name is Gakii) I felt so ashamed that I didn't even know this before, or think twice about her having such a western name! Stupid mzungu.

Anyway, I am resolved to come back to Kenya for longer, and also learn some more Swahili. The language is just so poetic and fun sounding. I cannot thank Kagendo enough, and I hope one day I will be able to host her in America. However, I know this is very unlikely, as it is so hard for most Africans to get an American visa. Maybe one day when Marekani (America) relaxes its borders (this is sarcasm)!